1. TERRITORIAL- Defending the property
2. SYMPATHETIC-when they hear another dog barking
3. AGGRESSIVE- warning to move away, protecting the owner, or fearful
4. ELIMINATIVE- requesting access to their toilet area
5. SOLICIATIVE- asking for food, play or attention
6. STRESS- INDUCED- as a means of relieving stress

ALL EXCESSIVE BARKERS BENEFIT FROM INCREASED EXERCISE, AND CLEAR POSITIVE LEADERSHIP.

OWNER ABSENT TERRITORIAL BARKING:

This is the most common cause for serious complaint, because usually the neighbors are affected, and complaining to you or the authorities. The best strategy is to contact the neighbors, and inform them that you are in a program to control barking. They might be willing (often motivated) to help if asked politely. Since often the barking occurs when you are gone, you need to collect some information. Your goal is to identify the pattern of barking.

SIGHT STIMULUS INDUCED (BARKING AFTER SEEING SOMETHING)

This occurs most often  if the dog can see people or cars going by. The dog barks, the object of their barking moves away, and the dog thinks he chased them away.  This is self-reinforcing. You cannot convince them otherwise. The correct strategy is to place a visual barrier or move the dog to a spot where he can’t see what is happening.

SOUND STIMULUS INDUCED (BARKING AFTER HEARING SOMETHING)

The corrective strategy is to cover up sounds using a radio playing white noise (between stations)in the area where the dog is kept.

OWNER PRESENT TERRITORIAL BARKING

The natural human response is to yell at the dog. The dog merely thinks you are the bigger barker. If he is an outdoor dog, the best strategy is to make him an indoor dog, correct whatever problems that made him an outdoor dog in the first place, and teach “NO BARK”. If moving indoors is impossible, you can implement these ideas:

If territorial barking, calmly go to the dog, pull him back by his collar and stand in front, looking in the same direction as the dog. Since you are his leader, this is to communicate that you are the lead dog, and are determining if the threat  is real or is to be ignored. In addition to establishing leadership, this helps teach the dog that sometimes it is ok to bark . Once you determine that the problem is not worthy of barking, use the “NO BARK” command.  “GOOD NO BARK”

SYMPATHETIC BARKING

Here we are working against the dog’s instinct and desire. The strategy is to investigate each barking episode until the dog understands. When it is determined to be sympathetic barking (other dogs are barking first), invoke the “NO BARKING AT BARKING” rule. Use the “NO BARK” command consistently.

ELIMINATIVE BARKING

Here you must decide if you want the dog to bark to ask for the door to be opened. The preferred technique is to have a regular schedule and the dog is taken out at these intervals, much as students go between classes. Most adult dogs require access to the designated toilet area 2-3 times a day (most puppies want to urinate every hour  because they are puppies) The disadvantage of allowing the dog to bark to come in or out is that they tend to generalize this, and begin to bark at you to command you to do a variety of tasks. This is a form of  subordination which breaks down your role as pack leader, and may become annoying. Another  disadvantage is that if the dog is ever boarded, he will often bark continuously, saying “I WANT OUT NOW!”

SOLICITIVE BARKING

If your dog barks to request something from you, try to imagine that he is commanding you. This is closer to the canine point of view, and is a negative because not only does he get to act as your boss, but you are rewarding this insubordination with giving him anything he wants!  If you  decide you want your dog to tell you when he wants something, be sure that you don’t allow more than one woof. You can do this by quickly rewarding one bark, but reprimanding two or more with the “NO BARK” command and correction.

STRESS INDUCED BARKING

This type of barking has a distinctive sound pattern. It does not begin because of a specific stimulus unless combined with territorial barking. As the stress builds up, the dog relieves some of it by barking, then stops. As it builds up again, the barking begins again. This results in a cyclic pattern of  barking. The frequency and intensity of stress induced barking is related to the quantity of stress, and how much is relieved by barking. Separation anxiety is often manifested by excessive barking. The basic strategy is to reduce the stress. Do this with increased exercise, leadership exercises, and if normally an outside dog, try to make him an indoor dog. This often means solving other behavior problems, but can usually be done with crate training. The dog is much less stressed indoors because he can’t see or hear as well, and he can enjoy your scent in the house, be near your objects and comfortably anticipate your return.

Avoid emotional greetings or farewells, since this causes anxiety due to the mood swings. If not a chewer by nature, try to train your dog to chew during your absence. The goal is to give the dog an acceptable alternative to relieve stress. Make his chew toys more desirable- peanut butter smeared inside a KONG, or hard cheese inside the KONG. Begin a new rule that you won’t greet the dog unless he has his chew toy in his mouth. You want him to associate chewing on his toys with your coming home.