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THE ENCLOSURE ITSELF
Turtles need relatively large enclosures for their size.
Generally, a 20 gallon aquarium tank is sufficient for most box
turtles. The enclosure should be able to be disinfected regularly, and
box turtles can be excellent climbers so the sides should be smooth to
prevent climbing. Glass, Plexiglas, fiberglass and plastic all make for
good turtle enclosures.
NECESSARY ACCESSORIES
Your turtle should always have fresh water available in a
shallow bowl or dish, preferably large enough for the turtle to climb in
and out of easily. Newspaper, brown paper, paper towels, or “Astroturf”
can be used on the bottom of the enclosure. Ease of cleaning should be
the primary concern. It is best not to use any small
rocks or gravel, peat moss, bark, or corn cob. This avoids the problem
of the turtle accidentally swallowing small stones. Also these materials
can grow bacteria and fungus easily, and are difficult to keep clean. A
hiding place large enough for your turtle to walk under or into should
be provided as well as to give your pet some privacy. A cardboard box
with a hole cut out, or hollowed out log do well for this purpose.
OUTDOOR ENCLOSURES
Box turtles can be housed outdoors in warm climates
however, there are several very important considerations one must keep
in mind when doing so. Outdoor housing is healthier for your turtle,
but there are hazards as well. The most important consideration is that
of predators! Your turtle, if housed outside, must be kept safe from
raccoons and neighborhood dogs, as well as predators from the sky such
as hawks! Therefore, your enclosure must have a strong wire mesh top
and must be dog proof. If this is not possible, your turtle should only
be outside while closely supervised.
The walls of the outdoors enclosure or pen must be
smooth, at least 6-8 up from the bottom. Box turtles are excellent
climbers and this will prevent their climbing out. Box turtles can also
dig and enjoy burrowing. For this reason wire mesh should extend 6
inches to one foot below the ground, or, the pen can have a solid
bottom. Your outdoor turtle will need fresh water and very importantly,
shade from the direct sun!
TEMPERATURE AND LIGHTING
Turtles are “cold blooded”. This means that they depend
on their external environment to maintain their optimum body
temperature. If their temperature is not correct, none of their body
systems will function properly including the digestive and immune
systems. A turtle that is too cold will not be able to digest food and
or fight off disease properly. Temperatures between 75°
and 85°
F are about ideal for most box turtles. Ideally, the enclosure should
be large enough to offer the turtle a range of comfortable temperatures
with one end cooler than the other. A thermometer should be placed at
both the warmest and the coolest parts of the enclosure so you can be
sure the temperature range is correct.
Heat should be provided in the following ways:
1.
A
heat lamp should be placed over one end of the enclosure. An infrared
or regular incandescent bulb can be used for this purpose. This lamp
should be on 10-14 hours a day and off at night. It is normal for the
turtle to experience an environment that cools off in the evening. Any
light source should be completely out of reach of your pet, preferably
outside of the enclosure to assure that your pet will not get burned.
2.
An
under the tank heater can be placed under the enclosure to provide
background heat. This should be left on and set on low 24 hours a day.
Do not place the heat source in the cage where it could come in contact
with the animal.
LIGHTING
It is essential that your turtle be provided with a full
spectrum, ultra violet (UV), fluorescent light. This light should be
left on 10-14 hours a day. It is also essential that there be no glass
or plastic between the bulb and your turtle. UV light will not pass
through these materials. A screen top to your enclosure is fine or no
top if you are certain your pet can not climb out. These full spectrum
UV bulbs do not give off much heat and should be used in addition to
heat lamp, not in place of it.
DIET
Most box turtles are omnivorous (eating many different
types of food), and do require some live foods to stay healthy. These
live food items consist primarily of earthworms, night crawlers, etc. A
variety of other foods is recommended as well. There are several brands
of commercial box turtle foods available in pet stores. Most of these
are suitable diets but should be fed in conjunction with fresh greens
such as spinach, parsley, kale, etc. (not lettuces), small amounts of
other vegetables such as corn, broccoli, mushrooms, and fresh fruit such
as strawberries, cranberries, red or black raspberries. These fresh
foods can be chopped up and mixed together so that each time your turtle
takes a bite, it gets a little bit of everything.
***Turtle enthusiasts
should remember that newly acquired animals often have parasites and/or
other health problems. A new pet exam as well as an annual exam with a
qualified exotic animal veterinarian is strongly recommended. With
proper care and feeding, your turtle can have a long and healthy
life.***
Ken Slossberg, DVM
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