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THE ENCLOSURE
Iguanas need large enclosures for their size. A 20 gallon tank will
suffice for baby and juvenile lizards, however the enclosure will have
to be replaced with a larger one as the animal grows. A full grown
iguana may need a room of its own! The enclosure should be able to be
disinfected regularly. Glass, Plexiglass, fiberglass and plastic make
all good iguana enclosures that are easy to clean. Wire or screen cages
are not appropriate as they can not hold heat and humidity, and can
create sores on your pet from rubbing.
NECESSARY ACCESSORIES
Your iguana should always have fresh water available in a shallow bowl
or dish, preferable large enough for the lizard to climb in and out of
and easily and shallow enough that it can easily keep its head above
water! Newspaper, brown paper, paper towels, or “Astroturf” can be used
on the bottom of the enclosure. Ease of cleaning should be the primary
concern. It is best not to use and small rocks or gravel, peat moss,
bark, or corn cob. This avoids the problem of the iguana accidentally
swallowing small stones. These materials can grow bacteria and fungus
easily, and are difficult to keep clean. Your iguana should have a
sturdy branch to climb on and “bask in the sun”.
TEMPERATURE AND LIGHTING
Iguanas are “cold blooded”. This means that they depend on their
external environment to maintain their optimum body temperature. If
their temperature is not correct, none of their body systems will
function properly, including the digestive and immune systems. An
iguana that is too cold will not be able to digest food and or fight
disease properly. Temperatures between 78˚ and 90˚ F are about ideal by
day, and no colder than 70˚ F at night. Ideally, the enclosure should
be large enough to offer the iguana a range of comfortable temperatures
with one end cooler than the other. A thermometer should be placed at
both the warmest and coolest parts of the enclosure so you can be sure
the temperature range is correct.
HEAT SHOULD BE PROVIDED IN THE FOLLOWING WAYS
A
heat lamp should be placed over one end of the enclosure. An infrared
or regular incandescent bulb can be used for this purpose. This lamp
should be on 10-14 hours a day and off at night. It is normal for the
iguana to experience an environment that cools off in the evening. Any
heat source should be completely out of reach of your pet, preferably
outside of the enclosure to assure your pet will not get burned. Do not
use “Hot Rocks”.
An
under the tank heater can be placed under the enclosure to provide
background heat. This should be left “on” and set on “low” 24 hours a
day. Do not place the heat source in the cage where it could come in
contact with the animal.
LIGHTING
It
is essential that your iguana be provided with a “full spectrum”, ultra
violet (UV), fluorescent light. This light should be left on 10-14
hours a day. It is also essential that there be no glass or plastic
between the bulb and your iguana. UV light will not pass through these
materials. A screen top to your enclosure is fine. If your pet does
not receive “full spectrum” UV light, it will develop serious
nutritional and bone problems! These “full spectrum” UV bulbs do not
give off much heat and should be used in addition to the heat lamp, not
in place of it.
HUMIDITY
The correct humidity is very important to the long term health of your
iguana. Without it, the iguana can develop kidney and other diseases.
It is also a tricky part of your lizard’s care. Too much humidity is
not healthy either. Ideally the humidity in the enclosure should be
around 70-80%. This can be accomplished both by the water dish in the
enclosure, and by misting the glass or inside surfaces of the enclosure
regularly. A humidity gauge can be purchased inexpensively at most pet
stores that carry reptiles. Humidity control is the most often
overlooked aspect of iguana care especially when the lizard is very
large.
***IMPORTANT NOTE***
Most
people will find it hard to provide a space large enough for a big
lizard that can also be kept at 85°
F and 80% humidity! For this reason, many iguana owners choose to let
their iguanas roam the house and bask in the window for heat and light.
This will lead to death of you iguana! Your house is not warm enough or
humid enough to allow your iguana’s bodily functions to operate
properly, nor, as mentioned earlier, will UV light pass through glass!
Therefore, this free roaming approach will make your iguana very sick
and will ultimately be fatal!
DIET
Iguanas are basically foliovours (plant eaters, or vegetarians). Fresh
greens such as spinach, parsley, kale, (not lettuces), and any
vegetables that have the word “greens” in their name such as collard
greens, mustard greens and dandelion greens should be offered daily, as
well as small amounts of fresh fruit such as strawberries, cranberries,
red or black raspberries. These fresh foods can be served whole, or, if
your iguana is picky, can be chopped up and mixed together so that each
time your pet takes a bite it gets a little of everything. Commercial
iguana diets are available and can be offered to your lizard as long as
they are only a small part of their diet, and the above mentioned foods
are being fed.
***Iguana
enthusiasts should remember that newly acquired animals often have
parasites and/or other health problems. A new pet exam, as well as
annual exams, with a qualified exotic animal veterinarian is strongly
recommended
Ken Slossberg, DVM |
