Snakes can make fine pets and can be very long lived depending on their species.  Their care in captivity is easier than with most other reptiles.  However, snakes have several important needs, all of which must be met or will fail to thrive and will more than likely to become sick.  Please take the time to read the following recommendations carefully and do not hesitate to call your qualified exotic animal veterinarian with questions.

For your snake to be happy and healthy, you must provide all four of the following:

1.      The correct ENCLOSURE

2.      The correct TEMPERATURE

3.      The correct LIGHTING

4.      The correct DIET

THE ENCLOSURE

Snakes need relatively large enclosures.  Generally, a 20 gallon aquarium tank is sufficient for most smaller species, but larger species such as pythons may eventually need a small room of their own!  Generally, your snake’s enclosure should be the largest you can afford and have space for, keeping in mind ease of cleaning.  The enclosure should be able to be disinfected regularly.  Glass, Plexiglas, fiberglass, polyurethaned wood, and plastic make for all good snake enclosures.  Most importantly the enclosure must be escape proof!  All doors and screen tops, etc. must be very secure!  Snakes are master escape artists!

NECESSARY ACCESSORIES

Your snake should always have fresh water available in a shallow bowl or dish, preferably large enough for the snake to climb in and out of easily.  Newspaper, brown paper, paper towels, or “Astroturf” can be used on the bottom of the enclosure.  Ease of cleaning should be the primary concern.  It is best not to use any small rocks or gravel, peat moss, bark, or corn cob.  This avoids the problem of the snake accidentally swallowing them.  These materials can grow bacteria and fungus easily. and are difficult to keep clean.  A hiding place large enough for your snake to crawl into should be provided as well to give your pet some privacy.  A cardboard box with a hole cut out, or hallowed out log do well for this purpose.  Preferably, two hiding places should be included in the enclosure, one in the warmer section of the enclosure and one in the cooler section.  (see “Temperature and Lighting” below).  Your snake will also need a rough surface such as a rock or log to aid it in shedding.  A sturdy climbing branch that spans from the floor to the top of the enclosure should also be provided for exercise and “perching”.

TEMPERATURE AND LIGHTING

Snakes are “cold blooded”.  This means that they depend on their external environment to maintain their optimum body temperature.  If their temperature is not correct, none of their bodily systems will function properly, including the digestive and immune systems.  A snake that is too cold will not be able to digest food and or fight off disease properly.  Temperatures between 75˚ and 90˚ F are about ideal for most snakes.  Ideally, the enclosure should be large enough to offer the snake a range of temperature with one end cooler than the other.  A thermometer should be placed at both the warmest and coolest parts of the enclosure so you can be sure the temperature range is correct.

HEAT SHOULD BE PROVIDED IN THE FOLLOWING WAYS

1. A heat lamp should be placed over one end of the enclosure, preferably near the high end of the climbing branch.  An infrared or regular incandescent bulb can be used for this purpose.  This lamp should be on 10-14 hours a day and off at night.  It is normal for the snake to experience an environment that cools off in the evening.  Any light source should be completely out of reach of your pet, preferably outside of the enclosure to assure your pet will not get burned.

2. An under the tank heater can be placed under the enclosure to provide background heat.  This should be left on and set on low 24 hours a day.  Do not place the heat source in the cage where it could come in contact with the animal.

LIGHTING

It is essential that your snake be provided with a “full spectrum”, ultra violet (UV), fluorescent light.  This light should be left on 10-14 hours a day.  It is also essential that there be no glass or plastic between the bulb and your pet.  UV light will not pass through these materials.  A screen top to your enclosure is fine, but must be secured tightly to prevent escape!  These full spectrum UV bulbs do not give off much heat and should be used in addition to the heat lamp, not in place of it. 

DIET

Diet is the easiest part of snake care.  This is because snakes get a balanced nutritious meal each time they eat.  Snakes need to eat whole animals.  Most snakes eat mice and rats.  Some larger species may eat rabbits or chickens, while some smaller varieties may eat minnows.  Snakes need to eat small prey more often when they are young, and as adults should eat one large meal every 2-4 weeks.  In the wild, if the snake is not hungry or if it misses its prey when it strikes, the prey runs away.  In captivity however, the prey can not run away, and faced with that fact will often attack the snake!  This can cause serious injury to the snake!  For this reason, it is best to offer frozen, dead prey that has been defrosted and warmed, or stunned live prey.  This prevents the prey from injuring the snake.  The expression “you are what you eat” could not be more true than for snakes.  Make sure the prey that you feed are as healthy and disease free as possible, and have been fed a nutritious diet before feeding them to your snake.

***Snake enthusiasts should remember that newly acquired animals often have parasites and/or other health problems.  A new pet exam, as well as annual exams, with a qualified exotic animal veterinarian is strongly recommended.  With proper care and feeding, your snake can have a long and healthy life.***

Ken Slossberg, DVM