Fresh water turtles can make fine pets, however, their care in captivity can be somewhat complicated.  These reptiles have several important needs, all of which must be met or they will fail to thrive and will more than likely become very sick.  Please take the time to read the following recommendations carefully and do not hesitate to call your qualified exotic animal veterinarian with questions.

For your water turtle to be happy and healthy, you must provide all four of the following:

1. The correct ENCLOSURE

2. The correct TEMPERATURE

3. The correct  DIET

4. The correct LIGHTING

      THE ENCLOSURE

Turtles need relatively large enclosures for their size.  Generally, a 20 gallon aquarium tank is sufficient for most aquatic turtles except for very large ones.  The enclosure should be able to be disinfected regularly.  Glass, Plexiglas, fiberglass and plastic all make good for turtle enclosures. 

NECESSARY ACCESSORIES

Water turtles need both a swimming area and a land area to rest from swimming and to bask in the “sun”.  Generally, the land area should be 1/3 the area of the enclosure, with the remaining 2/3 water.  The water area should be at least as deep as your turtle is long, preferably deeper.  The land or resting area must be large enough and dry enough for your turtle to get its entire body out of the water and dry off fully.

It is best not to use any small rocks or gravel in the swimming area.  This avoids the problem of the turtle accidentally swallowing small stones, and also makes the tank easier to clean.  Some species, such as Soft Shell Turtles, do require a sandy bottom in which to burrow.  In this case a very fine sandy bottom deep enough to cover the turtle’s upper shell would be provided.

The land area can be constructed of large rocks or bricks.  These are easily removed for cleaning.  They must be arranged in such a manner as to be secure, and so that your turtle can climb out and back into the water easily.

 IMPORTANT NOTE:  Tap water should be de-chlorinated before using it in the tank.  This can be accomplished by letting it stand over night (24-48 hours), or by using commercial tropical fish water treatments.

TEMPERATURE

Turtles are “cold blooded”.  This means that they depend on their external environment to maintain their optimum body temperature.  If their temperature is not correct, none of their body systems will function properly, including the digestive and immune systems.  A turtle that is too cold will not be able to digest food and or fight off disease properly.  Water temperature between 70° and 80° F are about ideal for most aquatic turtles.  Some tropical species may require even warmer temperatures of 80° and 90° F.  Ideally, the enclosure should be large enough to offer the turtle a range of comfortable temperatures with one end cooler than the other.  A thermometer should be placed at both the warmest and the coolest parts of the enclosure so you can be sure the temperature range is correct.

Heat should be provided in the following ways:

1.      A heat lamp should be placed over the land portion of the enclosure.  An infrared or regular incandescent bulb can be used for this purpose.  This lamp should be on 10-14 hours a day and off at night.  It is normal for the turtle to experience an environment that cools off in the evening.  Any light source should be completely out of reach of your pet, preferably outside of the enclosure to assure your pet will not get burned.

2.      An under the tank heater can be placed under the enclosure to provide background heat.  This should be left on and set on low 24 hours a day.  Do not place the heat source in the cage where it could come in contact with the animal.

3.      An aquarium heater can be used to heat the water portion of the enclosure.

LIGHTING

It is essential that your turtle be provided with a full spectrum ultra violet (UV), fluorescent light.  This light should be left on 10-14 hours a day. It is also essential that there be no glass or plastic between the bulb and the turtle.  UV light will not pass through these materials.  A screen top to your enclosure is fine, or no top if you are certain your pet can not climb out.  These full spectrum UV bulbs do not give off much heat and should be used in addition to heat lamp, not in place of it.

DIET

Most water turtles are primarily carnivorous (meat eaters), feeding on fish and other live food.  Water turtles generally prefer to eat in the water.  For this reason it is recommended that you feed your turtle in a plastic tub, separate aquarium, or sink (not used for food preparation or dish washing) filled with warm water, rather than its normal cage.  This helps keep the water in its tank much cleaner, as turtles will often defecate in the water as well.  ***Remember not to leave your turtle in it’s feeding container too long as it is not heated and does not have any resting place***.  Your turtle could get too cold or even drown.

A variety of foods is recommended.  There are several brands of commercial water turtle foods available in pet stores.  Most of these are suitable diets but should be fed in conjunction with tropical fish food, trout chow, and fresh green such as spinach, parsley, kale etc. (not lettuces).  Live foods such as gold fish and minnows may be entertaining for your turtle, but can cause problems.  The fish may be diseased or carry parasites that can be transmitted to your pet.  If live or killed fish are offered, they must be fed whole.  Feeding the meat only can cause serious nutritional deficiencies.

***Turtle enthusiasts should remember that newly acquired animals often have parasites and/or other health problems.  A new pet exam, as well as, an annual exam with a qualified exotic animal veterinarian is strongly recommended.  With proper care and feeding, you turtle can have a long, healthy life***.

Ken Slossberg, DVM